Douglas DC-3C

For

MS Flight Simulator

Aircraft Operations Manual

* * *

Introduction

The DC-3C is an extensive modification of the Microsoft default DC-3 to make the experience of operating and flying it more authentic. The problem with many of the simulated aircraft in MSFS is that they are too simplistic and too perfect. This works fine for the more casual virtual pilots but for those of us that want a deeper sense of realism, we long for more complete and accurate systems modeling and for emergency procedures, checklists, and operational limitations that have meaning -- because things can (and sometimes do) go wrong in real-world airplanes.

This manual assumes you have flown simulated DC-3's before and are familiar with the basics. If that's not the case, it might be better if you try the default DC-3 or another, simpler version before you tackle this one.

The focus of the DC-3C project is on the aircraft's systems environment rather than the flight model. This package contains the most realistic freeware versions of DC-3 flight dynamics I could find, along with my personal favorite set of authentic sounds; and a generic bare metal base texture so that if you’re interested you can easily substitute your favorite livery or paint your own. (Full credit goes to the hard work of the talented people whose freely given work I've incorporated; they are listed in the Appendix A.)

Most of my effort has gone into a set of gauges that work around and over the default Flight Simulator implementation to provide electrical, hydraulic, oil, fuel and anti-icing systems that behave like those in the real DC-3C. That effort required some slight modifications to the aircraft.cfg and .AIR files; so this DC-3C package is a complete set and the panel and gauges can't be transported to another version without some minor work. Appendix C describes the changes I made so that if you're familiar with FS panel design you can retrofit this gauge set to almost any other DC-3 implementation.

The systems modeled in this simulated DC-3C are based on the 1957 DC-3C flight manual from QuebecAir, which is available for download on the web. Whatever that manual says about how the various systems operate has been reproduced here with what I hope is near-absolute fidelity. There are some few things (for example, the real DC-3 propeller unfeathering procedure) that no matter how hard I tried I couldn't fake or coax MSFS into allowing. I hope future versions of the simulator allow more flexibility. All deviations from the QuebecAir flight manual are listed in Appendix D.

If you're not a real DC-3 pilot but have enjoyed flying simulated ones, you need to study and understand this manual; because the experience of flying the DC-3C is superficially similar to other versions you may be familiar with. But what's going on "behind the scenes" may be different than anything you've experienced in the sim world; and you must treat your DC-3C right if you expect her to return the favor and keep you in the air. The failure modes implemented in this airplane are far deeper and more DC-3 specific than the generic ones in FS, and serious pilot-induced errors can lead to serious consequences while operating this airplane.

As in the real world, when flying the DC-3C, you must accept that rarely, but sometimes, your pre-flight checklists may uncover problems that will prevent your flight that day; in which case you'll need to taxi back to the hanger and call maintenance (i.e. re-start your flight). If that level of realism frustrates you, random failures can be turned off (as explained later in the manual) but you'll need to do that before every flight.

Thank you for trying the DC-3C. Please email me with your comments and suggestions at ceo1944@yahoo.com.

Section I

Normal Operating Procedures

The Douglas DC-3 isn't as complex as a Boeing 747, but it's not a Cessna 150 either. It has its own set of unique quirks and complexities. This section leads you through the typical steps involved in operating the DC-3C properly.

Be assured that there is nothing in the following flight procedures that's said for pretend realism. The systems you are operating here aren't the ones that you may be used to that are based around what's built-in to Microsoft Flight Simulator. Every checklist item and every warning is here to caution about a real possible situation in the DC-3C aircraft, including some that could happen in the real world but that simulator pilots seldom expect to ever encounter. Even light bulbs can burn out in this airplane.

Entering the Cockpit

1. Verify the CART ATTACHED light is on. Normally, as you enter the cockpit for the first time, the ground crew will have the battery cart plugged in and supplying you with ground power. This is to charge and preserve your battery. However, some smaller airports don't have ground power. If you aren't parked on a hard surface, the cart won't be attached and your battery is all you have. Note: the parking brake acts as a signal to the ground crew to connect or disconnect the cart. There will be a delay between the brake setting and the actual connection or disconnection. Be patient. Further note: At some small FS2004 airports, what looks like a hard surface isn't. Don't be surprised if at a small airport no cart is connected for you.

2. Verify the voltmeter on the left overhead panel is reading about 30 volts. If no ground power is available, the voltage should be the battery voltage instead, roughly 26 volts. Any reading under 24 volts means your battery may be in poor condition. If the reading is under 22 volts you won’t be able to start your engines -- time to call maintenance and replace the battery. But battery failures are rare.

3. Turn on the MASTER SWITCH, located on the overhead panel.

4. Turn on the NAV lights on the overhead.

5. Turn on the PANEL LIGHTS if needed.

6. Verify the red oil and fuel pressure lights for both engines are ON.

7. Verify the red BATTERY DRAIN light is OFF if the cart is attached.

8. Verify the red ENGINE FIRE lights are OFF.

9. Verify the GEAR lights are both ON and GREEN.

10. The red DOOR light should be ON, as the cabin attendant will usually open up the doors when the engines aren't running and the no smoking and seat belt signs are switched off.

11. Flip up the RADIO MASTER switch. Verify that the green TRM light on COMM1 lights up. If you don't have ground power, switch off any non-essential radio equipment to preserve your battery. Turn them on later when needed. On the ground, you should only need COMM1 for communications. You can turn on all your radios when you've got both generators running. This is not a worry if the CART ATTACHED light is on, leave all your radios on (if you want) in that case.

Engine Start

1. Turn the SEAT BELTS and NO SMOKING signs ON. The cabin attendant will close the door for you.

2. Verify the door is closed. The light should go off.

3. Turn both GENERATOR switches ON.

4. Note: we start the right engine (#2) first. This is traditional DC-3 practice. Not only is that the engine we can't see from the captain's seat, but delaying the left engine start would give a little more time for any late-arriving passengers to board, as the door is on the left side.

5. Set the Right Magneto to BOTH.

6. Set mixtures to AUTO RICH.

7. Set Propellers to FULL FINE (all the way forward).

8. Open the throttles slightly (about 1/8 of their travel at most).

9. Cowl Flaps should be OPEN. If they aren't, there's nothing we can do about it now, because we don't have any hydraulic pressure yet. Cowl flaps use hydraulic pressure to operate. We won't have hydraulic pressure until we start an engine unless we use the auxiliary pump, and we don't need to do that right now. (There may be some residual pressure in the lines that will allow one or two changes in the cowl flaps position before it’s bled off.)

10. Turn the right engine fuel pump and energizer switches ON. These are located on the right overhead panel.

11. Important: read the next three paragraphs over carefully and understand them before you try to do them.

12. Flip the IGNITION switch (over the magnetos) to the right. The right engine will start turning over. Let it turn over at least three times (to flush out any oil left in the cylinders), then:

13. Lift the right engine PRIMER switch at one-second intervals until the engine fires. Once it fires, the ignition switch will return to neutral for you. The amount of priming needed varies depending on how cold the engine is. The first start on a very cold day could take quite a few primes. But if the engine doesn't start after about 8 or 9 primes, click the IGNITION switch to shut off the starter and investigate: are the mixtures on auto-rich? Magnetos set to BOTH? Fuel pump on? Energizer on?

14. Do not prime the engine more than once after the engine starts unless you hear it start to die. If you hear the engine backfire, the most probable reason is that you over-primed it. Severe over-priming of an engine before starting it can damage it and even result in an engine fire. Be careful.

15. Once the engine is running, adjust the throttle to idle at about 1000 RPM.

16. Turn OFF the fuel pump and energizer switches.

Repeat this same procedure for the left engine. Do not allow the RPMs to exceed 1400 during this start procedure.

If you forgot to turn on the seat belt and no smoking signs or close the door, the cabin attendant will close it for you once both engines are running.

If the Cowl flaps aren't open (you'll have to look out the window [or use an outside view] to see, just like in a real DC-3), set them open now. (Cowl flap controls are on the cowl flap control panel [the C Icon].) To set the cowl flaps open, rotate the knob to the OPN position and wait for a few seconds, then move the knob to OFF. We normally leave the knob in the OFF position because the cowl flaps operate from hydraulic pressure and hydraulic leaks are something to always be alert for. The OFF setting removes pressure from the cowl flap hydraulic line while leaving the cowl flaps at their last setting, so if a leak occurs in that line we won't lose precious hydraulic fluid.

Warm-up

1. Set throttles to about 1300 RPM. Observe the ammeter on the right side of the overhead panel to ensure that both generators are online. Generators go offline at under, roughly, 1200 RPM.

2. Warm-up the engine by waiting for the oil temperature to reach 50 degrees and the cylinder head temperature to reach 100 degrees (the green zones). Be patient here, this warm-up is important for the health of your engines, and their health is vital to that of yours and your passengers!

3. When the engines have warmed up, release the PARKING BRAKE. The best way to do that is to tap the toe brakes, although clicking on the brake handle will work. This signals to your ground crew that you are ready to taxi. If it's windy, you should keep pressure on the toe brakes to prevent inadvertent movement until the cart is unplugged.

4. Wait for the ground crew to detach the battery cart. The CART ATTACHED light will go off and you'll hear the relay switching the main bus over to internal power. Do not taxi until the cart attached light goes out or you'll hurt something, probably your own electrical system.

5. Verify that the BATTERY DRAIN light is still out. Both ammeters should show a small drain on each generator. If the battery light isn't out, advance the throttles slightly until the generators kick in.

6. Switch both generators off and observe the voltmeter. It should drop to about 26 volts. This is your battery charge level. It's possible that you could have a dead or dying battery on board. You should not fly without a good battery (24 volts or over); you will need it.

7. Switch the right generator ON. Observe the right ammeter level. This is the full electrical load being pulled at this time. This load for each generator must be under 75 amps or the breaker for that generator will trip.

8. Switch the left generator ON and verify that the load is shared equally between the two generators. Do not attempt flight with one generator inoperative, you won't have enough power to safely operate all the equipment you'll need. One-generator or battery-only operation is for emergencies only and requires a reduction of the normal in-flight electrical load.

9. Verify the CART ATTACHED light is off. If you try to taxi before the cable is unplugged, you'll likely short out your electrical system or at least damage the plug so that you can't reconnect. This is worth saying again.

10. Verify the oil temperature and pressure gauges are in the green. DO NOT taxi with the oil temperature under 40 or the cylinder head temperature under 100.

11. Bring up the hydraulic control panel [the H icon] and verify that the gear and system pressure reads about 700-750 PSI. If it does not, you have a hydraulic leak or failure and it's time to call the mechanic. All shutoff values must be in the ON position.

12. Check the fuel levels in the tanks and verify you have enough for your flight.

13. Get clearance and taxi to the active.

Taxiing

1. Set the cowl flaps to TRAIL (then OFF as usual.)

2. Unlock the tail wheel for taxi.

3. Shortly after you start moving, verify that the brakes work. The DC-3 has hydraulic brakes, and they can fail on either or both wheels. Verify that the hydraulic pressure doesn't drop significantly when you apply the brakes, which would indicate a leak in the brake line. Remember, we're not saying this just because it's true in the real DC-3 and we want to sound authentic; we're saying it because those are both failures that can occur in this simulated DC-3C you are driving now. Every simulated pump can fail and every simulated fluid line can break and leak.

Engine Run-up

1. Set the parking brake ON. Note: if you have not taxied away from the ramp, the ground crew will automatically re-connect the battery cart to your DC-3 in about 15 to 20 seconds. If you have taxied away, the cart is no longer available; don't expect it to be re-connected until you land and set the parking brake at the ramp.

2. Advance the propellers to FULL FINE (forward).

3. Advance the throttles until both engines are at 2000 RPM.

4. Check both magnetos on both engines. Verify the drop in RPM is no more than 65. Any greater indicates a dead magneto, meaning you are down to one on that engine and if that fails the engine fails. Magnetos fail more often than any other engine component, that's why there are two of them per engine.

5. Check carburetor heat on both engines. Verify that the carburetor air temp increases by about 50 degrees.

6. Retard the propellers to full coarse, and verify that the RPM drop is no more than 700 RPM. Any greater drop means the propeller governor is suspect and flight should not be attempted.

7. Advance propellers back to FULL FINE. Verify RPM returns to normal. Again, look for suspicious RPM changes. The RPM should return very near to where it was before.

8. Press the left-engine feathering button and verify that the RPM starts to fall. Let it fall about 200 RPM, then press the button back in. If the RPM doesn’t fall, it means the feathering pump has failed. Inability to feather a failed engine in flight means you won’t be able to maintain altitude on one engine. Check the right-engine button in the same way.

9. Return the throttle back to about 1250 RPM.

10. Switch off both generators and verify that your battery voltage is about 26 volts. Then switch both generators on again. Verify that they share the load equally.

11. Very Important! Verify that the flight controls have full, free movement. Use an outside view to watch them move, because in the sim you can move your joystick but that doesn't guarantee the control surfaces are doing likewise. It's possible that a flight control cable could be broken or hung. This is very serious. I have personally unexpectedly crashed on takeoff while testing the DC-3C after forgetting to check the flight controls. I'll never forget again.

Pre-Takeoff

1. Switch the Beacon ON.

2. Switch the landing light ON.

3. Set the trim tabs to zero or slightly up.

4. Be sure the flaps are UP (unless a very short field in which case one notch).

5. Pitot heat ON if temperature warrants.

6. Prop anti-ice should be ON if icing conditions are present. Potential icing conditions are temperatures between 3 and -25 Celsius with precipitation or clouds of any kind, especially rain. However, DO NOT attempt takeoff with the wing de-icers on. If you suspect ice on your wings (the sim won't show visually it but it could be there) you may cycle the wing de-icers once (turn the switch on for 15 seconds, then off) while on the ground. You may also wish to use carburetor heat for takeoff in icing conditions. (I have verified that the icing simulation in FS2004 is real and it can ruin your day. The DC-3C anti-icing and de-icing systems do work.)

7. Turn the Inverter switch ON. The inverter powers the Radio-Magnetic Indicator flight instrument.

8. Get clearance, taxi into position.

Take-off

1. Important: Lock the tail wheel. The DC-3 is a bit awkward on the ground and you don't want that awkwardness to bite you on the takeoff roll. This can be critical in a crosswind situation; more than one DC-3 has exited the runway in a non-vertical fashion due to forgetting this detail.

2. Advance the propellers to FULL FORWARD.

3. Advance throttle to TAKEOFF POWER - 44 Hg Manifold pressure. This should be the only time you ever allow the RPM or manifold pressure gauges above the green zones. Both will be in the yellow on the takeoff roll.

4. Rotate at about 85 knots.

5. Gear UP as soon as positive rate of climb is established.

6. Flaps UP if you needed to use any (which will be rarely).

7. Remain in TAKEOFF POWER until airspeed reaches 105 KIAS; then retard throttles to 42 inches manifold pressure and propellers to 2500 RPM (METO power). METO Power is just on the top edge of the green zones for both RPM and manifold pressure.

8. Note: some DC-3 pilots prefer using full throttles rather than the de-rated power I recommend here. Either will work satisfactorily, but I believe that if you don't have to stress your engines a little more than is necessary, why do it? There are valid arguments both ways. On a short field, or where there are obstacles, substitute full power for the 44 inches I recommended above.

Climb

1. Climb in METO power until 500 ft AGL or obstacles are cleared, then switch to normal climb power -- 36 inches of manifold pressure and 2350 RPM.

2. Climbing above 5000 MSL, switch mixture to AUTO-LEAN.

3. You will notice that as you get above 4000 MSL or so, you will have to add power to maintain the same manifold pressure. This is the normal effect that thinning air has on a reciprocal engine.

Cruise

1. Cowl flaps to CLOSED. Flying with closed cowl flaps gives you more airspeed and you shouldn't need the extra cooling at cruise. Always remember to move the cowl flap control to OFF after a few seconds.

2. Throttle 30-32 inches MP, propellers 2000 RPM. Maximum sustained cruise power is 34 inches MP and 2100 RPM. If you are over 160 KIAS in level flight for any period of time, you're probably running your engines too hard.

3. Monitor the engine instruments. Refer to the CAUTIONS section below. Keep all the gauges "in the green" at all times. Be alert to any unexpected fall in fuel or oil pressure, or increase in oil or cylinder head temperature; these are signs of potential engine trouble.

4. Your best indication of system abnormality is asymmetry in the gauges. A little is normal, but any significant difference in the two engines, or a significant unexplained rising or falling trend indicates trouble. Falling fuel, hydraulic, or oil pressure could indicate a leak. Some leaks can be dealt with via the shut-off values. Consult the "Emergency Procedures" below.

In Range (Approach)

1. Cowl Flaps to TRAIL.

2. One notch of flaps if needed, but no more, when under 135 KIAS.

3. Descend at 20 inches MP, 2000 RPM, or less if needed to keep speed where you need it to be.

4. Don't allow the top two digits of the RPM to exceed the manifold pressure by too much until you are at or below 105 knots IAS; for example, 2100 RPM versus 15 inches MP is a difference of six and a situation to avoid; there are many terms for this but I call it "back loading" and it can damage your engine if allowed to happen often.

Final

1. Gear DOWN. Note: Gear will lower by its own weight even if your hydraulic pressure is low. Cowl flaps, wing flaps, and brakes will not work without hydraulic pressure, however.

2. Flaps DOWN to 1/2 at 105 KIAS; 3/4 and FULL below 97 KIAS. Flaps on the DC-3C will not lower until under their safe airspeeds. This is a characteristic of the real DC-3C.

3. Normal cruise electrical loads can exceed the capacity of a single generator to handle the load. Since generators automatically switch offline when under 1200 RPM, this introduces the problem of generators tripping the breakers when the engines go to idle on the flare. To prevent this from happening you have two options. The first is to switch off the inverter when starting on final, if the Radio Magnetic Indicator isn’t needed (as it normally isn’t). This should bring the load back under the 75 amps one generator can handle. The other option is to watch the RPMs when you flare to prevent them going under 1200.

4. Speed should be about 85 KIAS on final. Maintain slight power until flare.

5. Flare, idle engine and touch down at 80 KIAS or below. If you don't bounce you know you've nailed it. Some small bounce is pretty normal, too much bounce and you need to work on your technique, you're probably too fast. (Normal air pressure in the DC-3's tires is only 40 PSI, which makes them very soft and bouncy indeed.)

Taxi to Ramp

1. Flaps UP.

2. Landing lights OFF.

3. Beacons OFF.

4. Set the parking brake when at the ramp.

5. If possible, wait for the cart to attach before shutting down the engines, even through it may take a minute or two for them to roll it out to you. Often, on quick stops where there was no time for the cart or no cart available, DC-3 pilots would shut off the left engine but leave the right one running while passengers boarded or cargo was loaded. The point is to preserve your battery. If you do this, be sure to not overload the one remaining generator -- kept it below 75 amps unless the cart is attached. More details are in the Electrical section below.

Section II

Emergency Procedures

Engine Fire in Flight

This is probably the worst thing that can happen, so it's listed first.

1. DETERMINE the affected engine. Don't be in a hurry and pick the wrong one. There are two lights, one for each engine. Visually you can verify by looking out the window or from an outside view. The burning engine will be spewing black smoke and flames may be visible under the cowlings.

2. SHUT DOWN the engine; turning off the magnetos, mixture, and fuel selector for it to OFF. Bring up the Emergency control panel and turn the three firewall shutoff values to OFF. This is to eliminate all potential fuel for the fire.

3. FEATHER the propellers using the propeller feathering procedure below.

4. SELECT a suitable landing area and turn toward it. Do this before you try and put out the fire. Time is short and precious. You will land soon.

5. Now, return to the emergency fire control panel and turn the fire suppression engine selector to the burning engine. Pull the CO2 BOTTLE #1 handle. You'll hear the gas release. Wait 10 seconds after the sound stops, and check the fire warning light. If it's still lit, the fire is still burning. Try BOTTLE #2.

6. LAND IMMEDIATELY, regardless of whether the fire went out or not. Fires can re-start; it may not be out completely. If it's still burning, you have no time to waste. The consequences will go from bad to worse as time passes. Soon, aircraft systems may start to fail and the aileron control cable will eventually burn through and you will "depart controlled flight" as they say. You have between 8 and 12 minutes, maximum, to get on the ground safely with an engine on fire.

Section III

Cautions

There are a number of "sins" you can commit while flying a DC-3, and all of them have consequences when you're in the cockpit of this DC-3C. Some are immediate, however most are subtle and unseen, but they add up. Too many sins and things can add up to disaster. Unlike a modern aircraft, the DC-3 doesn't always have safety features to prevent many of these errors from being committed. You have to be aware of how to treat the airplane and its engines right so that they treat you right.

Here's how the consequences are implemented. Each engine has a "damage count", which may or may not start out at zero for each flight. (There are random factors involved in all this so that things aren't the same on every flight.) Each engine also has a "fail point" at which it is subject to failure once the damage count has reached that level. Not every engine has the same fail point, in fact, the code is written so that on any given flight both engines will never have the same fail point. One will fail before the other even if their damage counts are the same.

Although one or both engines may not start their damage counts at zero, both will start far enough below the fail point to allow for a safe and uneventful flight -- provided you don't commit too many sins during the flight! But you won't ever know exactly how many indulgences you have (it varies every time), so assume always that one sin is too many, even though it probably isn't.

Most sins listed below have the potential to add to the damage count. A few of these bring on immediate trouble. Most just add to the counts. Some don't even apply to the engines, so don't affect the counts but ruin your day in other ways.

This is a listing of things NOT to do while flying the DC-3C, and what might happen if you do them.

Remember, turning random failures off doesn't turn pilot-induced errors off. If you want to do that, fly another simulated DC-3, not this one.

The List of Sins

1. Don't taxi or move the aircraft while the cart is attached. You WILL break the plug, and possibly short out the whole electrical system.

2. Try to avoid starting the aircraft on its own battery without the cart attached. The battery has limited capacity and the starter motors will drain it all too quickly if you have problems starting the engines. If you have departed the ramp area, no cart will be available to you; and if your battery can't deliver at least 22 volts you won't be able to start the engines. (Note, the cart also will not be attached or re-attached unless you have the parking brake on, and are also on a concrete or asphalt surface.)

3. Don't taxi or run the engines at over 1500 RPM until the oil temperature is above 40 degrees and the cylinder head temperature is above 100. If you do, you risk adding to the engine damage counter.

4. Monitor your electrical load. Don't allow more than 75 amps to be drawn from any one generator. If you do, the breaker on that generator will pop out shutting down that circuit. If this happens, you must reduce the electrical load and reset the breaker.

5. Don't allow your battery to become seriously discharged, because a low battery requires a heavy amp pull from the generators to recharge it. This is an easy way to exceed the 75 amp limit on generator output.

6. Do not allow the manifold pressure up above 44 inches, except during a short period on takeoff. Any extended time above 44 inches in flight may add to the damage count. Much time above the red line (48) WILL add to the damage count.

7. Do not allow the cylinder head temperature to get above the red line (260 degrees) EVER. Doing so WILL add to the damage count, and continuing to run the engine in an overheated condition will drive up the count rapidly. The same applies to the oil temperature. Keep the temperature gauges in the green. Managing your cowl flaps properly is the key to not running too hot.

8. Do not allow the RPMs (divided by 100) to exceed the manifold pressure at airspeeds above 100 knots. Doing so introduces the problem of "back loading", where the spinning propeller drives the shaft rather than the engine. Doing this risks adding to the damage counts, and the greater the gap, and the greater the speed, the more likelihood of damage.

How do I know the damage count?

You don't. However, there are some clues. Watch your instruments. If the oil temperature on an engine starts to rise, and the oil pressure on that same engine to fall, the engine is going to fail soon -- you can count on it. But even if you don't see any clues, that's no guarantee that all is well. If you hear the engine backfire, that's also never a good sign.

If the oil pressure starts to fall without a corresponding rise in oil temperature, it's probably the sign of an oil leak. See "Emergency Procedures" above. Same applies to the fuel pressure or hydraulic pressure.

What happens when the damage count gets to the fail point?

Once again, there are random factors involved in the calculation. There's no guarantee, you may be lucky that day or you may not. There are four possibilities:

1. Nothing happens. You dodged the bullet, this time, but the damage count is still over the limit and one more addition to it will roll this particular set of dice again.

2. Nothing happens immediately, but the oil temperature starts to rise and the oil pressure starts to fall. The engine will fail soon, but not quite yet.

3. The engine fails and stops running, with or without a loud bang. But the loud bang is not a good sign.

4. The engine catches fire. This may or may not result in immediate engine failure, but it will result in the engine fire warnings lighting up and buzzing. See EMERGENCY PROCEDURES above. (TIP: if you want to see an engine fire and practice fighting it, hit the primer about 20 times before starting an engine. It'll light up for you.)

This fail point checking occurs every time the damage counters are incremented. Therefore, even if you escape the maximum sin count once, you're on borrowed time.

If one engine fails, you can be sure the other one is pretty near its fail point too. This makes one-engine flight much more challenging. You need to be particularly careful not to overheat the remaining engine or you'll be in a big, heavy glider headed towards the nearest farmer's cornfield.

“Random” Failures

The DC-3C is equipped with a realistic random failures system that's on by default with every flight. "Random Failures" are non-pilot-induced ones. This system has four settings:

- Rare: Failures can happen but they are rare. This is the normal mode.

- Never: Random failures won't happen (but pilot-induced ones always can.)

- Likely: The chances of a random failure are greatly increased.

- Certain: You will experience failures, probably multiple ones.

The normal default is 'rare' which is realistic. You could fly for weeks or months without having anything go wrong. But anything can at any time, on the ground or in the air. Checklists in the DC-3C take on serious meaning.

You can control this setting by clicking on the "CAUTION EMERGENCY USE ONLY" sign on the emergency control panel. Each click cycles through one of the four settings.

"Random failures" in the DC-3C are not truly random. Which failures are likely or possible are based on your situation. Some are pre-set to occur only before you power up your DC-3C. Others happen mostly when the engines are first stressed (run-up or takeoff). Others can happen anytime, anywhere.

The DC-3C failure modes go far beyond what's available in the regular Flight Simulator scheme. There are over 64 failure points, most specific to the real DC-3C and its systems. You can experience engine failures, hydraulic leaks, fuel leaks, electrical shorts, failed generators, failed pumps, inoperative instruments, bad magnetos, and even snapped or frozen flight control cables. Some things are subtle, like battery under-volts or a leak in the alcohol tank. Others are unmistakable, like the warning light and buzzer that signals an engine fire, and if you look out your window you'll see the evil black smoke and licking flames from the cowlings.

But there is no failure which you have no way of detecting or coping with. For instance, the system won't break or freeze a control cable in flight because in a sim that's simply unfair; you can't do anything but crash. However cable faults can happen on the ground, and if you skip checking for it before takeoff you could find yourself on a very short and painful flight path.

Sometimes, failures occur and the pilot isn't even aware of it. An alcohol leak on a summer day when the deicing system isn't needed is unlikely to be noticed. But an oil leak will come to your attention, especially if you don't see the drop in pressure until both engines seize up. You might not notice a hydraulic leak until most of your fluid is gone and the flaps won't work -- and you have no brakes! The DC-3c really should have a low hydraulic pressure warning but the real one didn't so this simulated one doesn't either.

You have options for dealing with any failure, but you must understand the DC-3's systems to know what to do. In the rest of this manual, we'll explain the workings of the DC-3C's aircraft systems, in enough detail for you to understand them from a pilot's (not a mechanic's) point of view.

Section IV

Aircraft Systems

Electrical System

There are three sources for electrical power to your DC-3C:

1. The "battery cart" that can be connected while you are near the ramp with the parking brake set. This will provide up to 150 amps of power at 28 volts, more than sufficient to charge your battery and meet all your power needs.

2. One generator on each engine. Each generator can supply up to 75 amps of power. Each generator will only provide power when its engine is running at about 1200 RPM or above. The generators can re-charge the battery also, but this requires amps too, and the lower the battery charge is the more amps are drawn to recharge it.

3. The aircraft battery is actually two 12-volt batteries wired in series to provide a 26 volt supply. The battery alone can provide up to 100 amps, but the higher the load, the faster the charge will drop. As the charge drops, the battery voltage drops. Most of the avionics in the DC-3C require at least 18 volts to operate. The engine start motors require 22 volts to turn over.

A voltmeter and a dual ammeter are provided on the overhead panel to monitor the status of the electrical system. A warning light over the engine instruments will light up red whenever the battery is being drained rather than charged.

The voltmeter reads the voltage currently supplying the main bus. The DC-3C has a relay which automatically switches the battery cart to supply the main bus when the cart is connected. When the cart is disconnected, this relay switches power to the generators or to the battery if the generators are not online. Here are the rules for the voltmeter reading:

· When the cart is connected, the voltmeter shows the cart voltage.

· When the cart is not connected but either generator is online, the voltmeter shows the generator voltage.

· If neither the cart nor the generators are supplying power, the voltmeter shows the battery voltage.

The ammeter has a needle for the left and the right engine. Each reading shows the amps being pulled from that generator to supply the electrical needs at that moment. If the generator is not online or is inoperative, the reading will be zero.

Each generator can produce up to 75 amps. Together, the two generators together produce a theoretical maximum of 150 amps. There is only a single electrical bus in the DC-3C, which we refer to as the "main bus". That bus is distributed to the various devices and instruments through the main circuit breaker panel. Appendix B contains a detailed list of the amperage requirements for each device.

The normal cruise load is about 80-100 amps, except when the anti-ice equipment is switched on which raises that to 125 amps at the point the boots cycle to their maximum extension.

In the event of an engine or generator failure, it will be necessary to reduce the electrical load to under 75 amps by switching off all non-essential equipment. Often, when an engine fails, the load placed suddenly on the remaining generator causes its breaker to trip. In that case, you must switch off some equipment before resetting the breaker.

In case both generators are inoperative, it's essential to reduce power drain to the absolute minimum to conserve battery life.

Be careful when feathering, this operation uses an electric pump which places a heavy drain on the supply while the feathering process is taking place.

Note: the DC-3C electrical system is outside the MSFS one. None of the addon software (such as FSUPIC) or tricks that prolong battery life will have any effect on it. The battery life is realistic and adequate but not excessive.

Fuel System

Each engine has its own engine-driven fuel pump and fuel line, and each is supplemented by an electric pump, which must be used to start the engine, and which can be used in flight in case of engine pump failure.

The DC-3C has four fuel tanks, each with a capacity of about 200 gallons. The main tanks are named the right main and the left main. The auxiliary tanks are referred to as the right and left rear tanks, because they are located aft of the main tanks. The quantity of fuel in these sets of tanks will affect the DC-3C's center of gravity, so proper fuel management during flight is important.

Each engine has a fuel selector on its side of the throttle quadrant that selects its fuel source. Any engine can drain from any tank, and there is an OFF setting for each engine. Normally, the right engine should draw from the right tanks, and the left from its side.

For takeoff and landing, the fuel selectors should be on the main tanks, right main for the right engine and left main for the left engine. This is because on the DC-3C the carburator vent is routed to the main tanks, and during periods of high engine manifold pressure this helps prevent vapor lock.

During cruise, the fuel selectors are normally set to draw from the auxiliary (rear) tanks until they are down to about 10 gallons each, then switched to the main tanks.

The fuel line to each engine passes through the firewall, and there is a shutoff valve on the emergency control panel that will shut off fuel at that point. This valve should, of course, normally be open but reasons to close it would be engine fire or a suspected fuel leak.

Fuel quantity and pressure are measured by gauges on the main panel. An unusual drop in fuel pressure could be indicative of a malfunctioning engine fuel pump and may call for the electric pump to be used. A drop in pressure could also indicate a fuel leak. If use of the electric pump does not restore pressure to normal, a leak is confirmed. Check the fuel quantity gauge for any abnormal drop in fuel level in any one tank. Land as soon as practical - a fuel leak can lead to a very dangerous fire.

Important note: some MSFS aircraft have a fuel system where all tanks are automatically drained to supply the engines. This is not true in the DC-3C. If the fuel tank you have selected runs dry, the engine will stop, regardless of the quantity of fuel in any other tanks.

Oil System

The DC-3C has two separate oil systems, one for each engine, each with their own separate oil supply and pump.

Oil is used for lubrication of the engines as well as for operation of the propeller governors.

Oil pressure and temperature are monitored by gauges on the main panel. Oil temperature that is too low or too high is very detrimental to the operation of the engines, and must be monitored at all times.

Falling oil pressure could indicate a faulty pump or an oil leak. In any case, you should get on the ground as quickly as possible if oil pressure cannot be maintained.

Hydraulic System

The DC-3C depends on its single hydraulic system for the operation of the landing gear, trailing edge flaps, brakes, and cowl flaps.

The hydraulic panel is the central point where the hydraulic system is monitored and controlled. Gauges there indicate pressure to the landing gear and in the main system. Normal pressure is about 750 PSI.

Each engine has its own hydraulic pump, and either engine alone can power the system with sufficient force. In the rare case where both pumps are inoperative (say, an engine failure on one side and a pump failure on the other) an electric auxiliary pump is provided to maintain pressure.

Lower than normal or gradually dropping pressure indicates a compromise in the hydraulic system (a leak). The four shutoff values on the hydraulic control panel allow you to close off parts of the system to identify the source of a leak and to prevent further loss of hydraulic fluid. If you shut off a section that has the leak, pressure should return towards normal or at least stop falling.

If a leak is suspected, it must be isolated and closed off promptly, or the fluid supply could get so low that no hydraulic services are available. The landing gear will drop by gravity, but the cowl flaps, wing flaps, and brakes depend on hydraulic pressure to operate.

Anti-Icing System

Your DC-3C is equipped with a full set of deicing and anti-icing systems, and if you fly in icing conditions you'll need them. (Contrary to some folklore, FS2004 and FSX do simulate the effects of icing on propellers and airframes, to the point of departing controlled flight if the conditions are severe and not dealt with.)

There are four kinds of icing that can affect the DC-3C.

Carburetor icing (that we're all familiar with) can happen anytime the carburetor air temp falls below zero and there's humidity in the air. Use the carburetor heat controls on the throttle quadrant to fix this. Nothing unusual, this has happened to every sim pilot who flies with the realism sliders to max.

Pitot icing is when ice forms around the tiny opening of the pitot tube that measures airspeed, blocking it. The symptom (in FS2004, somewhat unrealistically) is that the indicated airspeed will suddenly drop to zero. The cure is to turn on the pitot heat to melt the ice. In fact, anytime temperatures are near or below freezing you should have the pitot heat switch turned on. Temporary pitot freeze will often occur in severe icing conditions even with the heater on before you entered the conditions. This is a primary indication (i.e. a warning) that propeller and airframe icing may also be present.

Propeller icing. In airframe icing conditions (from 5 above to 25 below (Celsius) when flying in clouds or in precipitation) ice can form on propeller blades, reducing their effectiveness and thereby reducing thrust and therefore airspeed. The effect is subtle at first, but it gradually gets worse as time goes by. An otherwise unexplained gradual drop in airspeed could be icing even if it looks clear outside if the temperature is near or below zero. If you ever see your pitot freeze, even for a moment or two, then you can be sure conditions are ripe for prop and airframe icing (this is true in FS2004, not necessarily in the real world).

The DC-3C is equipped with a propeller anti-ice system which pumps alcohol out to the propeller blades to prevent the formation of ice on them. You should turn on the prop anti-ice system whenever you suspect icing conditions present to prevent ice forming. This system will also melt any ice that's already there. Use of this system consumes alcohol, and once the alcohol supply is consumed the anti-icing system no longer functions. The aircraft's normal supply is 11 gallons of alcohol, and the use rate is six quarts per hour per engine.

Airframe icing can and will occur whenever conditions are right for prop icing. Ice forms on the wings and all exposed surfaces (alas, it isn't visually depicted in the sim). The effect of this ice is to add to the gross weight of the airplane, increase the stall speed, and gradually change the shape and aerodynamic properties of the wing. The DC-3 series aircraft handle ice loads well, but enough ice and even a DC-3 can fall out of the sky. Airframe icing is particularly dangerous if the pilot is unaware of it and attempts final approach and landing at normal speeds, resulting in an unexpected stall.

The DC-3C is equipped with a set of de-icing boots along the leading edge of both wings. When this system is switched on, the rubber boots are pressurized to expand and break up the ice formations. The boots operate in a cycle, where every 50 seconds they expand for a period of about 10 seconds, then contract. You should NEVER operate this de-icing system unless you need it, and it's best to operate it intermittently rather than continuously. Don't be alarmed when you hear the sound of the ice striking the hull as it flies off the wings on each expansion cycle.

APPENDIX A - CREDITS

Without the work of many talented and hard-working designers I’d never have been able to complete the project, as I am a poor graphics artist and not an expert on flight dynamics and FDE design, nor am I a pilot of a real DC-3.

In no particular order, the awards go to:

Mark Beaumont and Dave Bitzer for their work in making the DC-3 flight dynamics much more realistic than the default version, and for the four-tank fuel setup that works like the real DC-3.

Norm Hancock of DC-3 Airways for some of the bitmaps for the engine gauges.

Hans-Joerg Naegele,Wolfram Beckert, Howard Sodja, and Jan Visser for many of the bitmaps associated with the flight instruments and radios, which I took from their wonderful Connie panel.

Tom Gibson for the idea that started this whole thing, from seeing the way he implemented the DC-6 electrical system complete with ground cart.

Trev Morrison for his great DC-3 sound package.

I’m sure I’m forgetting many others.

APPENDIX B - ELECTRICAL LOAD

Breaker Load Amps Breaker rating

1 Left engine generator - 75

2 Right engine generator - 75

3 Battery cart - 120

4 Left engine starter 15 20

5 Right engine starter 15 20

6 Left engine fuel pump 10 15

7 Right engine fuel pump 10 15

8 Left engine feather motor 20 25

9 Right engine feather motor 20 25

A Automatic Pilot 6 10

B Battery charging 10 -

C COMM1 Radio 3 5

D NAV1 Radio 3 5

E NAV2 Radio 3 5

F Transponder 3 5

G ADF Receiver 3 5

H DME Receiver 3 5

I COMM2 Radio 5 10

J NAV Lights 5 10

K Beacon 5 10

L Landing Lights 10 15

L Anti-icing pump 10 15

M De-icing boots 15 20

N Panel lights 2 5

O Aux. Hydraulic Pump 8 10

APPENDIX C - Customizing another DC-3 for this gauge set

Got to work on this. Some notes:

Add 1513, 1518 and 1519 to the .AIR file

Fuel tanks in the aircraft.cfg must match

gear warning horn in sound.cfg

DC3CPNL.cfg and sounds in sound folder

APPENDIX D - Deviations from the QuebecAir DC-3C Manual

Unfeathering does not work properly. In the real DC-3, you unfeathered the prop first, then attempted to restart the engine. MSFS 2004 will only unfeather as a part of the actual restart.

Gear dropping. In the real DC-3, the gear would drop by gravity alone, and a sharp nose-up was needed to lock the gear in place. In FS2004, the gear locks in place automatically without the nose-up maneuver.

The real DC-3C often had an auxiliary power unit installed in the tail, which was a small gas powered generator. I choose not to implement the APU on this version.

The DC-3C used by QuebecAir had a gasoline heater than was used to heat the cabin, with the controls in the cockpit. I chose to not implement these heater controls (with their fire warning and fire suppression capability) in the sim in this version.

The DC-3C had a hand-operated auxiliary hydraulic pump. I couldn’t figure any logical way to make a hand-powered pump (with no co-pilot to pump it wile you flew) so I chose to modernize the concept slightly and provided the same functionality with an electric auxiliary pump.